reprinted from 1994 AKCA Seminar Binder
ICH: Ichthyophthirius multifilis.
Freshwater Ich causes small white spots all over the fishes body.
In some cases, Ich spots may not be grossly visible, but you may
see then under the scope. This has to do with a fishes' immune
response or lack thereof. The disease is a ciliated protozooan ,
and it kills smaller fish, while sparing the larger ones. Damage
to the gills is the primary way it kills. Its life cycle is
roughly 2-5 days, but can be longer (5+ weeks) if the water is
cool, much shorter if the water is warmer. To treat, elevate
water temps and add salt. Using salt rnay harm plants, so if you
are looking for an alternative, I would use Formalin 37% and
Malachite Green, applying 1cc Formalin 37% per 10 gallons water
every 3rd day after a 30% waterchange. The Malachite green is not
that important in this, but would be used to give the Formalin an
emerald color. Overdosaing is unlikely with the Malachite
fraction, used this way. Three or four treatments covering 10-14
days would be necessary. I always urge people to use salt first.
Simply remove the plants and treat them outside the tank with
Formalin 2cc per lOgal for 6 hrs before re-adding them to the
system, to remove any latent Ich.
CHILODINELLA:
Chilodinella is one of the hottest fish killers there is. Under
the scope you may see a beanshaped organism, or a large round
organism full of tiny bubbles. Alive, the Chilodinella resembles
a heart shaped onion with a flizzy end where you could imagine
the onions roots would be. These are actually cilia. Dead,
Chilodinella are motionless round balls full of tiny bubbles.
They may resemble Ich but they do not have crescent nucleus nor
do they move in their dead, rounded state. Chilodinella clears
EASILY with salt. Leave the salt in for 14 days, and be sure to
supplement aeration, as gill damage from Chilodinella may be
severe in the survivors Chilodinella should be suspected anytime
large numbers of fish are dying on the surface or who roll over
on their sides except when disturbed, the Koi dash madly.
COSTIIA/ICHTHYOBODO:
Costia or lchthyobodo necatrix, is a ciliated protozooan parasite
of freshwater fish that also has the capability to kill flsh in
great numbers and in no short time-span. The only good fortune in
this is that it perishes readily when salted. Costia may be
attached, or freeswimming. Attached Costia look like little
commas stuck into the skin (or gill) by the thin end.
Freeswimming Costia are graceless wobbly swimmers that look like
commas or almost like half open Conch shells. Costia clears
easily with salt, and this infection should be suspected when
alot of fish are dying, fins may be reddened, and it appears that
the fish cannot breathe very well. Spiderweb lesions in rapidly
dying fish are also characteristic; as well as excess mucus on
the skin.
TRICHODINA:
This saucer-shaped parasite is over-rated in its pathogenicity
allthough, I have seen it cause spiderweb lesions in the skins of
Koi. The most serious damage it may do is to the gills of smaller
fishes. This is one of one of two or three parasites that causes
scratching in Koi, with no serious side effects. The most
important thing about Trichodina, is that when it is discovered,
it belies a problem in the System Housekeeping department You can
bet your license that there is some accumulation somewhere of
mulm, and lots of it. TRICHODINA clears easily with SALT, and in
very short order. You need only leave salt in for a few days to
clear Tricho for good. Here again, if salt cannot or will not be
used, Formalin is the next choice.
OODINIUM:
Oodinium is the causative agent in Velvet disease. This
pearshaped sessile organism gives a velvety, gold dust look to
affected Kol. It is reported that this may not clear with Salt,
but I have yet to see this type of resistance. If it didn'tclear
with Salt, I would use Formalin. I have only encountered
Velvet/Oodinium very rarely in Koi. It would be more common in
freshwater aquariums or on recently purchased Goldfish.
EPISTYLIS:
Epistylis is relatively uncommon, but, like Trichodina is more
common under circumstances of poor water management, especially
where water changes are not, or not frequently, done. Epistylis
will live opportunistically in wounds and ulcers, and looks alot
like Saprolegnia, (FUNGUS). It forms white tufts in smaller
wounds. Epistylis clears on its own when you begin good water
quality practices, and can be helped out of the system with a
good dose of what? You guessed it, SALT. Epistylis is obvious
under the scope because it has a long, stick-like stalk.
LERNEA:
Lernea elegans, the most common type of Anchor worm affecting
Koi, is a real threat. They attach ventrally, they hold on for
about 14 days, and they reproduce copiously. The wounds they
create almost always infect with Ulcer diseasse bacteria,
Aeromonas, and then you have two problems. Treatment can be
undertaken with Malathion, Fenthion, Trichloffon, Dylox, Dimilin,
and SALT. Salt works by killing the freeswimming reproductive
forms. Malathion just kills the Lernea dead, but is dangerous to
the fish. Fenthion is slow but safer Dimilin is great if you can
get it EPA and FDA will trounce you for having and using it. I do
recommend removing any adults you see attached and swabbing the
wounds with Iodine or mercurnchrome. I do recommend also feeding
an antibiotic food when you see Lernea to head off problems.
ARGULUS:
Argulus lice are obvious when they hit. They are greenish, disc
shaped parasites that 'suck' onto the fins and sides of the fish.
They can cause damage great enough to permit Ulcer formation.
They do NOT respond well to Formalin. They DO respond very well,
and very quickly to Organophosphates like Fenthion and also
Dimilin.
GYRODACTYLUS:
Flukes, of the class Gyrodactylus and Dactylogyrus, have long
been separated into Skin Flukes, and Gill flukes. There is no
need. Because while there are even subdivisions within
Gyrodactylus and Dactylogyrus, and they cam be distinguished by
their eyespots and Hooks, and embryos; they all die the same.
Flukes cause flashing in Koi and other species of fish, more than
any other parasite. Rarely fatal to any but the smallest fish,
Flukes eat slime and create bleeding microscopic wounds on the
gills and skin of fish These wounds can, and often do become
infected with Aeromonas bacteria, which is far worse than the
original Fluke problem. Their lifespan is roughly 14 days, but
they complete a reproductive-maturation cycle in 4 days, and they
can be treated with Formalin 37%, Salt, Organophosphates, Droncit
(Praziquantel) and Potassium recommend salt first, and if that
has not cleared the problem, (as proven microscopically)then use
Formalin as a clean up.Formalin as a clean up. Dactylogyrus has
eyespots, Gyro does not. Gyro has an embryo inside, Dactylo does
not.
Dropsey/Bloater:
Dropsy, also known as Bloater or Pinecone disease, is usually
caused by bacterial invasion of the fishes' kidney. A herpes
virus may also contribute. There is a sporozooan parasite that
can damage the Kidney this way, called Mitraspora cyprini, but I
have yet to see this on a necropsy. Dropsy is, for all intents
and purposes, untreatable, based on 2 years experience, using the
following drugs: Azactarn, Baytril, Chloramphenicol, Gentamicin,
and Amikacin. I have tried a Sulfa drug, brand name Albon, and
that did not resolve the problem either. Bacterial dropsy is
usually caused by Aeromonas or Pseudomonas bacteria. I have also
seen cases infected with Mycobacteria. By the time and the scales
protrude form the body, the damage to the kidney is so profound
that recovery is impossible. If you must try to save the fish,
isolate the specimen, elevate temps while elevating oxygenation,
and begin injecting antibiotics intraperitoneally. You could also
feed the antibiotics in a medicated feed.
Saprolegnia:
Fungal infections of Koi and other ornamental fish are usually
caused by Saprnlegnia, a common, if not ubiquitous fingus. Other
types include Achlya, Dermatocystidium1 and Branchiomyces. None
of the fungal infections I have EVER diagnosed from Koi in 2
years of clinical practice have been anything other than
Saprolegnia, and NEVER has Saprolegnia struck where there was not
SOME sort of stressor. Surviving 'jumpers', (fish that have
cleared the pond and flopped around), are always affected.
Healing ulcers often become infected with fungus. The disease
looks like cotton-wool protruding from the lesion, and may become
stained with algae. Diagnosis is by microscopy, and this is
important, as very often, Flexibacter columnaris will look just
like this, and it will not respond to anti fungal agents, because
IT is a bacteria! Treatment of fungal infections is only possible
where immaculate water quality and good diet prevails. Then, a
variety of drugs are effective, to include my favorite, Methylene
Blue. Formalin is effective but only worsens stress on the fish.
Malachite green can be swabbed on fungal lesions if the specimen
can easily be captured daily. Potassium permanganate effectively
kills fungi, perhaps better than anything, but this is a VERY
dangerous drug to use on fish, unless you have great experience
and don't mind a risk.
Scoliosis:
Scoliosis is caused by a variety of conditions, none of which is
infectious. The most common cause of scoliosis is Vitamin C
deficiency. But there are 3 other causes. 2) Tryptophan
deficiency: An amino acid protein building block that may be
absent in foods due to improper formulation, hyper extended
storage, excess heat in processing, or because no variation was
permitted in the diet. To avoid this, always use two different
high qualtiy staple diets, and supplement periodically with
earthworms or other bait worms. Mealworms and crickets may also
be accepted, especially if partially crushed. 3) Trauma: The
muscles of Koi and other teleost fish are assorted in bands
called 'somites'. When a somite is damaged, by intra Muscular
injection technique, for example, or a sharp blow, the somite may
die, which then shrinks, and kinks the fish, especially when
swimming. It may straighten at rest. 4) Organophosphates, like
Fenthion, Trichlorfon, or Malathion to name but a few, can cause
kinking of the body due to hyper contraction of the muscles. (A
side effect of these drugs on the fish is to prevent relaxtion of
muscles) and this may kink, or break the fishes back.
Vitamin C deficiencies may be avoided by feeding a varied diet to include the following greens: Spinach, Turnip greens, Broccoli heads, and Dark leaf lettuce. NOT PLAIN LETTUCE!!! Additionally, store no food longer than 90 days, and be sure the label has added ASCORBIC acid. Once scoliosis is noted, the fish is better removed to fresh water, and better attention to diet is advised. As a side note, the biggest, fastest growing fish are most likely to kink, as they need the most Vitamin C and calcium in their diet, to support their rapid growth.
Ulcer Disease
Ulcer Disease is almost always caused by Aeromonas bacteria or
more rarely Pseudomonas bacteria clinically, I wouldn't know
which because I rarely culture the pathogen. Why not? Because the
results could take a week to return, and by that time, all the
affected specimens would be dead. I have treated ulcer disease
with the following drugs: Enrofloxacin, Chloramphenicol,
Gentamicin, Amikacin, Tetracycline, and recently, Azactam. I
inject these drugs. Suffice it to say, that to save these fish,
my core recommendations would be to get the fish into a heated
environment, provide impeccable water quality, swab the wounds
with iodine or Mercurachrome, Feed Romet chow, Inject
Enrofloxacin and or Chloramphenicol, and hope that the next
spring that the fish does not bloat due to retention of latent
bacteria in the kidney after clinical cure.
LYMPHOCYSTIS
Of all the viruses affecting Kol, perhaps the most common is
LYMPHOCYSTIS. This is a viral pathogen that is poorly
transmissible between your specimens. It strikes fish when some
damage has occurred to mouth or fin, and sometimes on the body.
The lesions are warty and rough. They may be singular or
numerous. I see this viral infection in fish in immaculate
waters, and so I cannot verify that this is a stress related
disease I do know that it is merely disfiguring, not fatal.
Lesions may be scraped off; but this could open the skin or fin
to bacterial invasion. The only lesions that should be addressed
surgically are mouth lesions that interfere with eating. Often,
the lesions clear spontaneously, usually, but not always, the
SECOND summer after infection, at the peak of the heat. There is
a commercial remedy sold for this, but it does not work, and is
being sold purely to flim-flam the trusting hobbyist. It is
merely acriflavine which is a useless dye.
CARP POX
is another virus of a dermatological nature, that also has a low
transmissibility from fish to fish, and is again, not fatal,
merely disfiguring. The lesions are soft and waxy, not warty and
rough. The lesions should not be scraped. They may be
differentiated from Lymphocystis because they do NOT cause the
cells to become huge (megaloblastic) in size. The way Lymph does.
There is no treatment, and lesions do not resolve as well as
Lympho lesions do. You should be aware that CARPPOX lesions are
very, very rare in North America.
RHABDOVIRVS CARPIO
was reported to be a primary pathogen of cyprinid species,
particularly KoI and Carp. The virus causes what the British try
to call Spring Viremia of Carp, which is the grossest misnomer;
that tries to bundle a multifactorial process involving cold
water, depressed immunity, opportunistic pathogenic bacteria, and
then, only possibly, a virus like Rhabdovirus carpio; into a
simple viral disease. Rhabdovirus carpio has several other names,
as several scientists have found the same particle and given it
different names. We do know that it can cause swim bladder
inflamanation and a reddening disease of the skin called Carp
Erythrodertnatitis. You should know that Rhabdovirus carpio, and
Spring viremia of Carp, have not been isolated fom any fish on
the North American continent, so before you cry VIRUS, read a
little. Almost always, Aeromonas bacteria, (and a septicemia from
same), are concurrent players witht this virus, and it is hotly
debated whether Rhabdovirus carpio can even act alone.